For a lower-level walk in the Yorkshire Dales that still packs in a real sense of adventure, head to the Valley of Desolation. With beautiful views, rewarding walking, history, ruins, stepping stones, the most dangerous stretch of water in the UK, thick forest and more, this tranquil valley is somewhere you shouldn’t miss. There are plenty of walks in the area and this guide will help you plan a day out along the lower valley. There’s even a hidden waterfall thrown in for good measure.

Where is the Valley of Desolation?

On the edge of the Yorkshire Dales, lies the Valley of Desolation. It links the River Wharfe to Barden Fell and continues onto the peak of Simon’s Seat at 485m high. Named after a storm in 1826 that completely desolated the valley, it’s a place that feels wild and tranquil, even though it lies in the well-maintained estate of Bolton Abbey.

The Valley of Desolation is also home to a wonderful waterfall that’s worth visiting too. It has a shallow pool at the bottom and can be a bit tricky to find. That’s because it’s not on the main path and not signposted. You can find the waterfall though by following the walk route below. 

Strid Wood and The Strid

Strid Wood is home to one of the largest remains of sessile Oak Trees in the Yorkshire Dales and between it runs the impressive River Wharfe. This ancient woodland is one of the most visited in the Yorkshire Dales. It is a stunning spot to see all the changing colours of autumn. Known for its wide variety of flora and fauna including bluebells and wild garlic, Strid Wood is also home to an abundance of wildlife including deer, kingfishers and woodpeckers.

Throughout Strid Wood are plenty of colour coded nature trails you can follow. In 1810, the 6^th Duke of Devonshire opened Strid Wood and the public were able to walk along the nature trails. Now, the trails follow surfaced paths through the woodland. The green trail is wheelchair and pushchair friendly.

The Strid

At one point, the River Wharfe narrows dramatically forcing the full volume of the river through a carved out narrow gap in the riverbed. The water rushes through this section and rock has been worn down to create a narrow channel with hidden caves and severe undercurrents. Found in the heart of The Strid, to see it up close you’ll want to be on the right side of the river as you follow it downstream. The Strid is one of, if not THE most, dangerous stretches of river in the UK. It’s thought to have a 100% fatality rate as people who have fallen or jumped in are sucked underwater with the current.

Take notice of the signs along the riverbank here, stay back from the edge and stay out of the water.

Where is parking for the Valley of Desolation?

The Bolton Abbey Estate has multiple car parks but this walk is best started at either the Riverside Car Park at the Cavendish Pavillion or the Barden Bridge Car Park. 

If you choose to park at the Riverside Car Park, please note that there is a £15 charge.The funds raised from this go back into maintaining the estate. 

Starting at the Barden Bridge car park means you’ll do this walk slightly differently, seeing The Strid first, then the waterfall and finally the woodland. 

Is there public transport to the Valley of Desolation?

Arriving by bus

There are multiple bus services that stop at Bolton Abbey which can all be found on the “Find Us” section of the Bolton Abbey website;

The timetable for these bus services is at www.dalesbus.org

Arriving by train

The closest train stations to Bolton Abbey are Skipton and Ilkley. It’s best to then get a taxi to Bolton Abbey. 

How long is the walk through the Valley of Desolation?

This walk to see The Strid, Strid Woodland and the waterfall is a short 7.9km but you’ll find yourself stopping regularly. If you include a dip in the waterfall and a visit to the cafe then this walk will take you most of the day. 

There is also the option to extend your walk by heading up to the summit of Simon’s Seat by continuing up the path from the waterfall. 

Is the Valley of Desolation family friendly?

Yes – the paths through Strid Wood and along each side of the River Wharfe are well maintained and easy to follow. Children love paddling in the river down by the stepping stones and keen hikers with little legs enjoy the walk up to Simon’s Seat if they’re used to the challenge.

Are there facilities within the Valley of Desolation?

Yes – lots of them! There are four main car parks on the Bolton Abbey Estate with facilities at some of them.

The Cavendish Pavillion has toilets, a café with a resident baker and a little visitor centre/shop.

Bolton Abbey Car Park is close to the village centre and is a great access point for the priory ruins and stepping stones. Within the village, there are tea rooms, a gift shop, Post Office and a bookshop. 

Can you swim in the Valley of Desolation?

Swimming in The Strid is incredibly dangerous and sternly warned against from the signs along the river bank. Much further upstream and downstream there are numerous swimming and paddling spots. Note that the River Wharfe has strong currents and hidden debris underneath.

The waterfall within the Valley of Desolation is a great place for a secluded dip but unfortunately, not deep enough for a proper swim.

Valley of Desolation walk route and map

Download the Ordnance Survey route and map here.

1. Starting point at the Riverside Car Park at the Cavendish Pavillion. 

2. Cross the bridge from outside the cafe and immediately turn left, following the riverside path towards the woods. The River Wharfe should be on your left here. After going through the gate, follow the sign to the right, up through the woods. It is signposted for the Valley of Desolation. 

3. Meeting the road, follow it for a few minutes and look for a wooden gate on the right. Follow this path across the field and to the track which then winds through the trees, eventually opening up again. Keep left and follow the path to the viewpoint with a bench. 

4. This is where the waterfall is hidden.Head down this steep path, cross the wooden bridge over the river and then keep right. The path here is a bit overgrown but it will lead you right to the base of the waterfall. Retrace your steps back to the road and this time turn right. You’ll reach a small bridge with a footpath that leads towards the river. Follow this upstream.

5. Following the path up through the woods, it will lead away from the river and uphill. There’s a great view down to The Strid at one point. When you reach the bridge, cross it to get to the other side.

6. Follow the river downstream and eventually reach The Strid. This is where the river narrows and the water is pushed between a narrow gap in the rocks. You can walk along the edge of the rocks here when the river level is lower but the rocks are slippery so be careful. Do not enter the water here. Follow the riverside path downstream back to the Riverside Car Park. 

A – alternative car park at Barden Bridge.

Komoot App

Have you ever tried Komoot? Komoot allows you to access routes planned by others or plan your own. You can then download to your phone to follow while you are out. Komoot is free to join and access and you can find the route for his walk here.

What else is there to do in the Valley of Desolation?

A walk up Simon’s Seat and Barden Moor is worth the effort as views on a clear day are beautiful. Barden Moor and Barden Fell is suitable for hikers with more experience as self navigation will be needed.

The priory ruins are worth a visit too as well as the stepping stones. These are both slightly further down river but within walking distance of the car park. 

Good to know

• Grouse shooting takes place on Barden Moor and Barden Fell from 12^th August to 14^th. These areas remain open during this time.
• Barden Moor and Barden Fell can sometimes be closed during spells of dry weather due to fire risks. In this case, the Valley of Desolation would be included in this closure.
• Dogs are not permitted within the Valley of Desolation
• The green nature trail through Strid Wood from the Cavendish Pavilion to the Strid is pushchair and wheelchair friendly

Take a look at this video of the Valley of Desolation and let me know if you visit or plan on visiting.

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If you want another idea for a walk in the Yorkshire Dales then take a look at this walk through Troller’s Gill. It’s a short walk but you’ll need to be brave as it’s considered to be haunted!